Release Date: 2013
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Description: The marketing material for L'Artisan Parfumeur's new Explosions d'Émotions would have us believe, among other things, that the house's three newest creations are faithful to the vision of the L'Artisan's esteemed founder Jean Laporte. Of course, this little nugget of information was bookended by an art school promo video for Skin On Skin and the usual dose of hyperbolic language, so I approached the fragrances with a healthy skepticism and while the jury is still out on whether or not these fragrances successfully "translate the extraordinary emotional power of fragrance" (whatever that may be), they are undoubtedly faithful to the vision of Jean Laporte. Indeed, all three new compositions push the boundaries of fine fragrance, taking risks with materials and concepts. The result? Three of the most inventive and interesting fragrances to come out of the house in over a decade.
Skin On Skin opens with a smooth saffron note that segues beautifully into a heart of orris butter. The fragrance is warm and boozy and highlights the buttery and slightly waxy aspects of orris root. The base is a soft leather (more calfskin than rawhide) wrapped around a soft and powdery musk. The marketing material had me expecting a leather fragrance, but Skin On Skin is (in reality) a superb iris with leather accents and an excellent addition to L'Artisan Parfumeur's impressive range.
Notes: Saffron, orris, lavender, rose, leather, musk, skin accord, whiskey note